Friendly and enchanting Tamang peoples; I was the only westerner heading for the Tamang Heritage trail with everyone else heading for the Langtang area. Bathing with the locals and pilgrims in the hot springs at Tatopani was a highlight. Sharing memories of a recent trip to Mt Kailash and sharing Tibetan words and phrases was also very special. I found the area unspoilt by any excesses of infrastructure and tourist activity. It reminded me of my 1983 trek through Helambu. It was enriching indeed to pass through the many Tamang villages, to follow the rythmns of the farming day, to visit a school and many homes offering simple refreshments. The viewpoint for Tibet, Langtang, Gosainkund and more provides the pure mountain inspiration; smiles and spontaneous and generous welcome and curiosity transcend the backbreaking rural poverty and are moving indeed. The haunting beauty and isolation of this region, though, makes you wonder at your own privilege to be a visitor and your own responsibility to value and to enrich this living heritage both during and after the trip.